TGOC 2015:diary notes #4 Great Glen to Lochcallater Lodge

Wednesday 13th May Laggan Locks to Garva Bridge

(note1: click on a picture to enlarge it  ...

Push and pull the map in the window below to see the route (days 5-9) in blue. The route walked was slightly different from plan!
 
The hospitality at the Great Glen Hostel provided a welcome respite. Year by year they implement improvements to set it apart from the old youth hostel that is used to be. Most of the TGOers coming this way were here one or two days before me and a photocopied route is available showing the quickest way back into The Wilderness.

Across the road from the hostel is the South Laggan Forest which rises up the hills protecting Glen Turret. I ziz-zag up the forest track, then follow a path onto the open hillside until I reach a deer fence. I didn't find a crossing point but climbing over was not too difficult.

A couple of kilometres of open hillside leads to Glen Turret, with a track on the NE side of the river. I find myself on the opposite side expecting to use a bridge shown on my OS map - unfortunately this does not exist. Near to Brae Roy Lodge there is a high bridge across the gorge and then lower down a bridge carrying the road to the Lodge.

From here I take a track to Annat, a small house with a well protected garden and some new animal pens. Across the glen to the north are clearly visible the "parallel roads" - a phenomena created during glacial times, but from a distance looking like tracks contouring high up on the hillside.

Here there's a wonderful stalkers paths which traverses the hillside, eventually turning south following the Burn of Agie.The path reaches Dog Falls, a striking channel of smooth inclined rock which takes the river on a ziz-zag path over 100 metres or so. Here I wade across the stream following the route to the NE side and as I dry my feet I see, just a little higher upstream, a bridge.

The sun is now shining and this delightful and deserted valley inclines gently over 4 or 5 kilometres all the way up to munro territory. My original plan included a high camp here beside a couple of small lochans and a side trip up Creag Meagaidh. Today the lochans are just patches of snow and I am a day behind. The impressive view triggers my memory - that I can take pictures with my 'phone, as long as I can conserve the battery.

There's a lochan here, somewhere! Looking back towards Glen Tilt from the bealach below Creag Magaidh

 It is 4pm, not too late, and maybe this is an opportunity to catch up. I cut out the first munro and passing The Window head up to Stob Poite Coire Ardair. This is the top of a long ridge leading eastwards over 13 kilometres to the road that joins with Laggan Stores.

The Window

Stob Poite Coire Ardair summit

The crags below Creag Magaidh from Stob Poite Coire Ardair

This is pleasant walking, with firm ground underfoot and good views across the surrounding countryside. There have been two sets of footprints in the patches of snow on the route and I imagine I might catch sight of someone in the distance once I'm on the ridge, but I see noone. Probably the prints are from an earlier day.

By 7pm I am getting tired and try to avoid ascending yet another small top by traversing around on an imagined path. This diversion leads me to a small outcrop on the wrong side of the ridge, and the promise of rough and steep craggy ground to regain the top. At this stage in the day I succumb to the temptation to head downwards to find a camp spot.

With judgement impaired by tiredness I eventually pitch at 8pm on a 'flat' spot that was actually sloping. With Garva bridge in sight in the distance, the map shows that my misadventure will add 3km or so to my journey tomorrow.

Thursday 14th May Garva Bridge to Nuide

On sloping ground the problem with a Trailstar and a silnylon groundsheet that you spend the night trying to recover from sliding under the walls of the tent. Although cold the weather remained fair fortunately night.

As I decamped in the morning I could see some figures in the distance walking down the track to Garva Bridge. This was day 7 and I have seen no TGOers since day 1! Was this about to change?

With a new spring in my step I traversed the hillside across to the road and, after about 3 kilometres I caught up with two female first timers. By scanning the lists I think this must have been Elaine and Linda Duncan. They started on Sunday at Shiel Bridge and planned a short day meeting friends who would deliver their tent.

The road to Garva bridge with ridge to Stob Poite Coire Ardair

I moved ahead with breakfast in mind for Laggan Stores, just 7 km further on. I later found Tony and Jackie Ford famous for their honeymoon TGO trip a couple of years before. They were breaking camp with Sue Foss and Robert McKay. Two of them would follow me down to Laggan Stores while the Fords were keeping south of the River Spey.

I reached Laggan about midday to find the Stores still under renovation. A temporary operation was set up in a hut across the road, but with no running water and limited space all they could offer was drinks.

The shop was manned by 4 children who were all anxious to help an old walker. I had sent a parcel there with some food and maps. And they made me tea and found some cold orange drink, and some snacks. They explained that although they had spent eight years in Scotland they had kept their Canadian accent because of home schooling, which limited their contact with the local dialects.

Their mother was helpful too, and anxious to take note of what we might like to purchase next time when they are fully operational. It was comfortable to sit here and see to locals come and go, but I had to press on. A local bridge was closed to traffic which created a bit of a jam at this road junction. I'd been told it was no problem for walkers and I found that a large drainage ditch had collapsed, but I could just walk across an adjacent field to avoid the problem.

Following my vetter's counsel I took a road and track route towards Ruthven (Kingussie). My feet were sore from my boots and the road walking was a good opportunity for respite by using trainers. Because of this I skipped the plan to head down to Falls of Trium and Etteridge and took a slightly shorter option keeping on the road until it joins the A9.

Memorial at Glentrium

The small road from Catlodge was too busy with traffic and despite the pleasant surroundings it was good to get over (actually under!) the A9 and onto the track on the other side.

Path under A9 near Phones

This was sunny and pleasant walking with views of the Monadliath across the Spey valley to the left. By 6pm I was ready to camp and a field within sight of Kingussie provided an ideal spot. Shortly later Colin Tock came by on a repeat of his aborted trip from last year; he and Robert McKay - both deep in conversation, found time to stop and say hello before pressing on to their respective destinations for the evening.

Gen. Wade's Military Road between Phones and Luibleathann

It was a still and very cold night with ice forming on the surface of the tent. In the early morning I was surrounded by a great variety of different bird calls, and hares played in the field down below.

Friday 15th May Nuide to White Bridge

Camping at Nuide beside Gen. Wade's Military Road

This morning, within a short while, I am on familiar territory from a previous crossing - on the road passing Ruthven Barracks heading for Stronetoper bridge over the Feshie. Once across the river I stopped for a snack firm in the knowledge that I would not be taking the planned high route. I was still some hours behind schedule and felt tired and footsore.

As I munched my biscuits along came the first challenger of the day - Andrew Partington. I expected to see him again further down the valley.

A little distance along the path I found a mystery man repairing a bridge. He advised me to go into the bothy further down the valley and help myself to tea with fresh milk. I arrived to find hot water and tea and coffee and bananas. Already partaking was Andrew P. and Barbara Sanders from Burnley. I later learned that our mystery man stayed nearby in a tent and entertained challengers at the bothy in the evening with drinks and chocolates, turning a camp meal into a proper dining experience.

A couple of mountain bikers arrived soon after me but were in too much of a hurry to drink tea. I was to have them in sight for most of the day as they struggled to push their machines and a trailer over the path.

After a short break I headed off soon to be surprised by a number of people wading across the river towards me. Challengers of course! Apparently following the 'normal' route from Dalwhinnie.

I caught up with Barbara and we walked together for several hours. After 7 days with just my own thoughts to accompany me this made a nice change. I lost her when we stopped for a snack, for me a ten minute job whereas B. needed a brew and a chat with the Frenchman Cyril Huart who had pitched camp early near the bridge marking the highpoint and the transition from Feshie to Geldie Burn.

In spite of my stops the bikers were still just a few hundred metres ahead and this continued downhill until we reached the track along Geldie Burn; then they got on their saddles and peddled away.

As the slope started to head downwards I saw a figure following a few hundred metres behind me. I slowed to allow them to catch up, but they got no closer. So I speeded up again, and they seemed to speed up too. After 30 minutes of this caper I decided to stop and wait to ensure there was no misunderstanding. Along came not Barbara Sanders but a new actor Alan Jordan. He was on his 15th challenge and was looking for his camp site which soon appeared below the path.


My planned camp spot was by a ruined building designated Ruigh nan Clach on the map. Here my high route would have deliver me down to the river side. At 7 o'clock there were already 7 or 8 tents mostly Atkos here already zipped up against the wind. Two challengers were finishing food they had cooked in the ruined barn. I recognised Humphrey Weightman, half in and half out of his tent full of praise for some new German dehydrated meals.

By the time I was eating everyone else was zipped up (this is something you can't do in a Trailstar). They didn't see the snowy owl that almost landed on a tent before having second thoughts; or the heads of the deer that appeared above the rising ground a few yards away sensing that something was different here tonight.

Saturday 16th May White Bridge to Callater Lodge

I was first to leave at 7am along with Mike who was was starting ahead of his two companions on account his sore feet making him slow.

From here almost every flat piece of ground had one or more tents with TGOers.

For many TGOers the first bit of civilisation after the Cairngorms is Mar Lodge, run be the National Trust. Traditionally they welcome TGOers with accommodation, camping, and even meals. This year however there were other events taking place. Hospitality was limited to the use of a meeting room in a corner of the estate with a tea urn and some water biscuits. Best of all though was the use of a toilet and washbasin with hot water!

The room gave an opportunity to swap notes with Challengers from several directions, and to take stock before the road walk to Braemar. This was a convivial affair with Mick Croydon and David William with a few other people weaving their paths in and out of ours.

With the Fife Arms hotel closed for refurbishment there less reason to stay in Braemar. After a fried meal, an injection of fresh fruit, and a small resupply shop I found the road to golf course which eventually leads towards Glen Callater.

Traditionally the crowd gathers in Braemar on Saturday and part moves on to Lochcallater Lodge on Sunday evening. I had the path to myself that afternoon. It was so quiet that I began to doubt that the place was open and functioning.

Lochcallater Lodge

Biagio P. tests out his new hips at Lochcallater Lodge

But I didn't need to worry. On opening the door I was greeted warmly with a mug of tea. Would I be camping? or in the bunkhouse? or did I want a bed? We were 7 walkers there that evening, outnumbered by the helpers and visitors included the famous artist Denis Pidgeon. Also present was Biagio Pellegrini who was all set to take part in the challenge when, with only weeks to go he was called-in for a hip operation.

Plates of pasta were handed out. And some beers. Whiskies were tasted and savoured.

President in residence was the host Bill with a supporting cast of Mike, George, Ian, Ali, & Janine; walkers included Issy & Les Silkovski, Frederic Maillard from France, Maggie Herns and Vickie Allen.

TGOC 2015: Diary notes #3 S. Shiel Ridge to Great Glen Hostel

Sunday 10th May South Shiel Ridge

(note1: click on a picture to enlarge it  ...

Push and pull the map in the window below to see the route (days 1-4) in blue. The route walked was slightly different from the plan!
 
The first two days were so good, could I expect more of the same? I woke with cloud swirling around the tent; the prospect was not good.

I set off with little visibility, but without wind or rain. As I dropped down to the first bealach - Fraoch Choke the clouds parted and I glimpsed the valley below and the path up ahead. A good omen - I decided to continue up high.

The tops on the South Shiel ridge include some munros: Creag nan Damh (918m), Sgurr an Lochain (1004m), Sgurr an Doire Leathain (1010m), Maol Chinn-dearg (981m), Aonach Air Chrith (1021m), Druim Shionnach (987m), Creag a’ Mhaim (947m).

The last picture ever from my Sony RX100 Mk III showing the South Shiel Ridge to left and upper Glen Quoich centre right

After taking my first cloudy photographs it began to rain. I had a dry bag for my camera handy, but rather than use this straight away I put it in the pocket of my new PHD shell with its waterproof zip. A Sony RX100 mk3 recently bought specially for backpacking trips, this would never be used again. A few hours later I found the pocket was full of water, the camera soaked. Sony later indicated that it was 'beyond economic repair'.

This was a tough walk. The rain continued all day, the wind was relentless, and cloud limited visibility to 10-20m.

A snow bridge lead across the bealach below Sgurr an Lochain. The narrow top was partly flatted by the boots of those who traversed it the day before. The extent of the drop on either side was hidden in the mist. Crossing this felt like an act of commitment.

The ridge had patches of snow which obscured the path. It was impossible to see far ahead so I often had to rely on footprints from the day before to show me the way.  On the few wider areas these were far from distinct, and one time I needed my GPS and map to get back on track.

The biggest hazard was the wind. On the more narrow and exposed parts I was fearful that a gust could blown me over. The poor visibility made the going slow, requiring good and continuous concentration.

By 5 I had traversed all the munros without any views, and at last I was heading out of the cloud. The zig-zag path was a river racing down the end of Creag a’ Mhaim to Glen Loyne below.

A day of rain does not leave much behind on a narrow rock ridge, but down below the story is different. Wide areas of wet land and standing water were waiting for me. The rivers and streams had become swollen, noisy, fast flowing and challenging.

The ridge has been taking me east; as I arrive in the valley I need to head west a little to find the crossing point over the river Loyne. I have two streams to get over:- the first Altt Choire Odair takes 30 minutes to negotiate; the next one almost an hour, with a long climb up to find where I could cross it.

At the valley bottom I'm presented with two more difficult streams. One is between me and the ford over river Loyne shown on the map, the other bars the way upstream where I know the Loyne will eventually become smaller. It's almost 7 pm, I haven't seen a soul all day, and weary, I decide to call it a day and pitch camp.

Monday 11th May Glen Loyne, Tomdoun

My nightmare is that it rains through the night and all the crossings are even worse by morning. 

I wake as it gets light at 4:30. It is still raining. I wait until after 7 to rise and at 9 I'm ready to walk off after a couple of hours without heavy rain. I decide to head upstream. Away from the fording point, but to where I know the river Loyne will be puny enough to cross even in spate.

Next to a ruin, shown on the map, the river is split around an island and I can easily wade across. The valley has many ancient trees, a few alive and standing but most are buried under the peat with the occasional wood showing red against the black earth. I have 3 or 4 km to get back on the path. By 11 I've regained the track over towards Glen Garry and coming tentatively towards me I find a couple of Germans worrying about the crossing point.

They are travelling the Cape Wrath trail. One of them shivers uncontrollably - he explains that he forgot his waterproof trousers. I learn later that they cross the river successfully without a diversion. [Another TGOer explains that it is impossible for the normal crossing point to be more than knee deep - next time I will find out for myself].

My vetter discourages me from going down to Loch Loyne and, following his advice, I headed directly to the road near Tomdoun passing the camping placed used on my first challenge in 2011.

In planning I wanted to avoid the road and go south of the river Garry, but I was behind schedule and I followed the advise to take the road along to the bridge at Torr na Carraid. Striding purposefully in the opposite direction was a solo walker who stopped to pass greetings. He was following the Scotland National trail, and seemed to know the TGOC well. It turned out this was Colin Ibbotson.

The weather was better now and I was looking forward to walking the ridge of Sron a Choire Gharbh, a hill on my original plan for 2011 and thwarted by sore feet. It was too challenging to complete this today, so I called the Great Glen hostel and arranged to arrive a day later, and started to look for camp spot.

I eventually ended on the hard but level track. The wind was rising considerable and I used a number of large stones to anchor the Trailstar to the ground.

Tuesday 12th May Glengarry Forest to Laggan Lock

High wind and intermittent rain had continued through the night. The rain stopped as I was ready to move off.

The track ends with a gate onto the open hillside. The path remains distinct for a short while with signs of motorcycle tyres. These soon disappear and in spite of a signpost pointing to Kilfinnan the route is unclear. In fact it keeps on the east side of the river and staying here leads to an easier descent on the other side.

My plan is to cross over and take the ridge up. When I reach around 700m the rain has started again and the wind is strong enough to make it difficult to stand, the frozen rain going directly into my face.

Thwarted for a second time, I head back down and cross over to the path which I follow until it disappears. Studying the map and the land in front of me I go back to the west side of the river and traverse the lower slopes of the ridge I hoped to be on top of.

This leads to some very steep slopes onto fenced farmland above the road. Although not difficult to negotiate by then it is possible to see the path again on the other side which would provide an easier route down.

A kilometre down the road Laggan Locks provides a stark contract with the wilderness just left. Tourists arrive here by car or boat, and wander around in the sunshine, and there's a stream of walkers on the Great Glen Way which provides a level and civilised path between Fort William and Inverness.

I reached the Pub on the Barge, the Eagle at around 12:30. It was open even though this was Tuesday. So how could I not go in? I resisted the temptation of a fancy meal for dinner (these have to be ordered in advance), knowing I could rely on bar food favourites like Lasagne and chips if I find the energy later to return. Soup and bread made a welcome lunch.

The hostel is about 20 minutes walk away and arriving early in the afternoon provides a great opportunity to rearrange and check all the contents of my sack, arranging for wet things to dry in the drying room and the dirty stuff to be cleaned.

I managed to pick up a pre-ordered gas canister and some dried food. Although they do not cook meals there is a selection of frozen meals and groceries to support self-catering.

My tiny room had a computer terminal with a slow internet connection. I had been there but a short time when I had calls from home and from challenge control. My Spot tracker which became infamous last year by failing to work for a couple of days, had been misbehaving again. This time it worked fine for three days then started sending the wrong message. The concept is great as a tracker and safety device, and I don't know of anyone else who has had a problem with it. So I resolved to buy the newer version as replacement.

It is easy to faff around with gear for hours given the opportunity - and this I did, eventually repacking for a smooth getaway in the morning.

TGOC 2015: Diary notes #2 Glenelg to S. Shiel Ridge

Friday 8th May Glenelg and Beinn Sgritheall

(note1: click on a picture to enlarge it  ...

Push and pull the map in the window below to see the route (days 1-4)in blue.
 


Our landlady puts the TGOC 'sign-out sheet' in her porch on Thursday night.

There are 3 other TGOers at the breakfast table:- Bob and Rose Cartwright, and David Albon. I head off with David at 9, while Bob and Rose are wondering if there's a shop where they can buy some lunch. Several others have already signed out.

David and I are ready to go!

The weather is fine and sunny; primroses decorate the roadside, tadpoles wriggle in the puddles, and a cuckoo calls. I soon leave David to explore the first Broch (see previous post) and head up the valley on the south road looking for the bridge across the river giving me access to Beinn Sgrithe.

Suspension bridge giving access to south side of river

As I leave my pack Roger Boston catches up with me.

Beinn Sgritheall from above suspension bridge

our target: Beinn Sgritheall

my access route via the western bealach

Roger takes a more direct route and leads the way up the ridge

Beinn Sgritheall summit from top of NW ridge

Summit view with Isle of Skye Behind

This is a great diversion - about 5or 6km to the top, revealing great views over Skye. In fact in every direction mountains recede into the distance. The image of these twin peaks will be with me all the following day as I look to the west.

Summit view of Loch Hourn with Arnisdale and Barrisdale Bay

Beinn Sgrithheall - east summit from w.

Beinn Sgrithheall - west (true) summit from e.

My pack is down there!

 I head down to my pack, while Roger heads SE to catch a few corbets on his way to Kinloch Hourn.
I am back in the valley after 5; I planned to camp near Suardalen Bothy about 40 minutes away. Several TGOers had checked in there during the day for a break, but at 6pm it was deserted.

Suardalen bothy

I go a bit further to a spot I identified at Bealachasan on my walk over from Shiel Bridge. Here I could watch the sun set over my twin peaks of the day.

Camp with today's mountain in background

Saturday 9th May NW ridge to Saddle, Sgurr na Sgine, & S. Shiel Ridge

The good weather stays, promising a great day ahead. Some cloud appears above the tops over Skye to the west and later nearby but it remains well above the mountains.

Saddle NW ridge (near Shiel Bridge)

By 9 o'clock I was on the NW ridge of the Saddle. This is a fine route which twists and turns steadily progressing upwards to Spidean Dhomhuil Bhric. Then the ridge narrows as it approaches the Saddle, before reaching a wide area of snow surrounding the trig point.

Saddle NW ridge

Ridge from Spidean Dhomhuil Bhric to the Saddle

I've not seen a sole all day, but this will change as a steady procession of people approach up the Forcan Ridge.

Saddle summit with Forcan ridge behind

Saddle summit with Sgurr na Sgine

My route is down to the Bealach, I skirt the snow at its steepest, but then move across when I feel safe from a uncontrolled slide and the going becomes easier with with snow smoothing out the rocky surface underneath.

Sgurr na Sgine

Across the other side is Sgurr na Sgine. Once on the ridge it is an easy walk to the summit cairn.

Sgurr na Sgine summit with Saddle to right and Beinn Sgritheall and Isle of Skye to left

My route takes me further eastwards and I was encourage by my vetter to continue south rather than backtrack to reach the lower ground for approaching the next bealach.

After a while I understand why. Down this side of the hill is a drystone wall which provides a level route to traverse the slope. It also allows some time to study Sgurr a Bhac Chaolairs on the other side.

the 'wall route' to the bealach between Sgurr na Sgine and Sgurr a Bhac Chaolairs

There is no obvious way up. It is disconcerting to approach a slope without a plan of ascent. As you move closer you see less and less. My faith in the sloping terrace that seems to exist on the map to the left was misplaced and there is an uncomfortable scramble on sloping grass to reach firmer ground above.

Once up here I am rewarded with impressive view back towards the Saddle with a great expanse of rock of Sgurr na Sgine in the foreground. Time for a brew and a biscuit.

Looking back west toward The Saddle from Sgurr a Bhac Chaolairs

From summit of Sgurr a Bhac Chaolairs S. Sheil ridge to left and Gleouraich to right

 Moving from here across the next bealach to the beginning of the south Shiel Ridge is straight forward. It is 18:30, time to set up camp. Several walkers appear from the nearby summit of Creag nan Damh, enthusiastic about their traverse of the ridge. I'd planned an area by some lochans with a hint of a stream or spring. After confirming my location with the GPS I realise they are hidden under patches of snow and ice.

The A87 & Glen Shiel below

The lochans shown on the map are frozen  under snow

The icy outflow has a brackish taste, which disappears when boiled and added to my food. To the west there's a red sky as the sun sets and, below, one or two lights twinkle suggesting activity along the road to Shiel Bridge.

For a slide show see below:-